HSFC #3 PINK! Inspiration

Now pink is not a color I wear, unless it's a very coral pink. But, do you know who loves pink? Every little girl on the planet! What little girl doesn't wish she had a silky pink dress with ruffles and bows and some sort of flower thing going on, and while we're at it, matching ruffly bloomers so her panties don't show when she pirouettes? I happened to have a very old piece of silky pink fabric I had no idea what to do with.  With the year 1920 in mind, I found a goldmine of inspiration online.

I colorized this photo of an adorable toddler, but you just know that dress was originally pink. This type of dress was quite popular. The style is very simple: a lined slip-on dress with bound neckline and sleeves, and a very deep hem which can be taken down as Susie grows.  The string tie at the neck tightens or loosens the neckline.

This dress is a bit more detailed than I care to do, but I liked the fabric flower at the shoulder. I want to add that to my little dress.

An interesting bit of history: the idea that pink  is for girls and blue for boys is a 20th century concept. In the 19th century, it was often advised that mothers dress boys in pink, as it was a "strong" color, and girls in a serene blue. In non-western cultures, it is still not widely known or accepted. When I was a teacher at an International School in SE  Asia, I was always amused when families returned from summer holidays with new school clothes for the children. So often, Mummy would choose lovely pink outfits, from running shoes, socks, and upwards, for her little boy.  


Those were the days of talented children in silent films, and one I think was so cute was Baby Peggy Montgomery. I just love her mischievous dark eyes and bobbed hair, and her ruffly dress!

#2 Innovation -- Motoring Coat In Progress

                              

I've bitten off more than I could chew for this fortnight! I spent a lot of time constructing the basic coat and still have to sew in the sleeves and front pocket, and put on the detachable collar. I am happy with the coat, black and severe as it may be. Dad calls it my mourning dress. The collar is a beautiful velvet scarf I've had in a box for ages. Very 1920s - devoré velvet in a lovely paisley-ish pattern of black, rose, green, gold, and purple, with a slinky black fringe on the ends. Devoré was a process invented in the 1920s, where chemicals were applied to eat away (devour) the velvet pile in patterns. The gathered scarf adds a bit of glamor and warmth to the very basic coat. It's Double Innovation -- clothes for driving in cars and a new process for fabric!

Velvet shawl collar

Front of coat

Back, showing  buttoned

vent pleat

The Challenge: Innovation - The automobile and clothes to wear while in it, the devoré velvet process.

Fabric: 100% linen fabric for the coat, velvet collar

Pattern: self-drafted from photographs of coat patterns.

Year: early 1920s

Notions: Thread, 15 abalone shell buttons, bias tape for attaching collar, snaps

How historically accurate is it? Pretty accurate.

Hours to complete: Too many

First worn: Not quite finished.

Total cost: About US$10 from thrift store and notions on hand.

So I'm putting this in the closet for a bit, because I want to dive into the "Pink" category -- Challenge #3 Pink.

HSFC #2: Innovation -- A Ladies' Motoring Coat

When it comes to fashion periods, I really gravitate toward c. 1915-1924. Post-Edwardian/Titanic era and very much pre-Flapper. I like the shorter hemline, wider skirts, pretty blouses, off-the-waist waistlines, and the layers of collars and everything. Mainly, it's something I'd actually wear in real life. Patterns became simpler and less tailored, so sewing is simpler. 

When it comes to choosing an innovation that affected fashion during this time, we have a long list to choose from. New inventions, new fabrics, new media -- how do I choose? I finally settled on the automobile as the innovation, and decided to make a motoring coat or automobile duster. In the early 1900s, owning an automobile was a huge mark of status. Unfortunately for drivers and passengers, autos were open, roofless, windowless vehicles, so a drive could leave one pretty grimy from flying dust. To protect their clothes, they would wear a long, loose coat appropriately called a "duster". Eyes were protected with goggles, and a good snug hat covered the head. Women tied down their hats with veils that could be pulled over the face. Just arriving in a motoring coat told everyone "I own a car!!!" Of course, as the years rolled on and Henry Ford produced a car almost everyone could afford, motoring coats lost their glamour. But not their usefulness. Even with enclosed cars, a good duster came in handy for keeping the clothes tidy.

I'm going with a combination of these styles:

Linen motoring coat, c.1910-15.

I want a straight single-breasted style with a loose fit, with a contrast color on the collar and cuffs.

Linen motoring coat by Worth, pre-1910

I like this higher collar, but the loose fit of the one above. I've thought about making the back with a pleat at the top and made in two separate panels connected with a line of buttons. Lots of buttons! I have a good supply of abalone buttons that would be just right.
















Now take note that dusters are usually dust-colored. I am strictly limited to the fabric I have on hand, being pretty well broke when it comes to stuff besides food and gas for my car (yes, folks, I own an automobile!). I have a great stockpile of fabric from years of stashing, and several good-sized pieces of linen. Linen's the fabric for a duster, but I need a lot of it for a long-sleeved, ankle-length garment. Therefore, my duster is going to be black. I know -- every speck of dust from here to Timbuktu will show up on my black duster. But it will be cool, perhaps even steampunk (Challenge #20 - Alternate Universe).  I just googled steampunk long coat and whuddayaknow?! - they're all black!

New Year's Eve and an old Nightgown

I love to sew and over the years have channeled my sewing energies into making clothing from the past. I spend way too much time researching patterns, techniques, and extant garments with the intent to make everything I see. The late 1700s to 1860 appeal to me the most. Unfortunately, those years are pre-sewing machine and all hand-sewing. I haven't done any sewing since last summer when I had an accident that severed my right index finger and left the thumb inflexible. It's been an exercise in patience and practice to re-learn how to do things without my most useful digits, but I'm moving ahead.

I resolved to begin the New Year by getting back into my beloved historical sewing, and a few days ago, I stumbled upon The Dreamstress blog. It's run by Leimomi Oakes from New Zealand, and is chock-full of wonderful stuff that's right up my alley. She hosts a sew-along called The Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge -- a specific challenge to be completed in two weeks. The challenges are very open-ended, so you can easily fit your own personal goals into the theme. I was inspired! Perhaps you may be too, so why not check it out?

The current challenge is "Make Do and Mend". I decided to work on a nightgown I've had stored away for a few years. The Vermont Country Store is a local business that specializes in old-timey products. When they get returns, they just donate them to the thrift shop in my town. I bought a very basic nightgown for $2, because it was so basic. I don't wear nightgowns, but in case I find myself in 1860, I'd be prepared. 

This gown is a simple square-yoked style, with a slight gather under the yoke. The set-in sleeves are gathered at the armscye and at the closed cuffs. The front has a self-faced opening with four buttons to the neck and a stand-up collar.  It is made of unbleached, medium weight muslin. All of this is pretty authentic to a garment worn by a working woman from the 1860s onward. However, the construction is modern: all machine-sewn, with machine overcast raw edges. Four little white plastic buttons fasten the neck opening. I'm going to try and make it a bit more typical of the times.






I think the yoke has possibilities for some simple embellishment. I'm not fond of that collar.