Trove #7 -- Doll's Leggings

These leggings are surprisingly easy to make. They will fit a doll 12-14" in length. The original pattern, here, includes a pair of baby bootees, which I have omitted, since they are not for dolls. My edited pattern follows.

KNITTED DOLL LEGGINGS.

The Maitland Daily Mercury (NSW, Australia), Saturday 26 January 1935.

The doll's 'leggingettes' take one ounce of two-ply wool, and are knitted on number twelve (US2) needles. They should fit a 12-14 inch doll.

Start at the waist by casting on 34 stitches, and work four rows in two plain, two purl ribbing.

Now make the holes for the elastic: *Knit four, make one, knit two together, repeat from * to the end of the row.

Knit six more rows of ribbing, then knit plain for four inches.

Now decrease one stitch at each end of the work every other row, until you have reduced the stitches to 30, then work 12 rows without shaping.

Next row: Knit three, make one; knit two together; continue from to the end of the row. Continue in plain knitting for four rows, then divide the stitches for the foot.

Next row, knit ten, and on the next (middle) ten stitches work backwards and forwards for 12 rows.

Break off the wool, and join to where the ten stitches were left, then, with the same needle, pick up six stitches along the side of the instep flap and also ten stitches across the toe.

Take a spare needle and knit ten toe stitches, pick up six stitches down the other side of the instep flap, and also work the remaining ten stitches on to the same needle.

Knit across all the stitches for six rows, then decrease one stitch at both ends of the needles, for four rows and cast off. This completes one leg. Make another to match, then join the feet and leg seams, thread elastic through the waist, and ribbons through the holes at the ankle parts.

Trove #6 -- Dolly's Outfit

This is a nice little set for Dolly from 1925. Here's the link to the original article in The Brisbane Courier, via Trove. It includes a dress, a nightgown, and  petticoat.

Here's my edited re-write of the pattern. Some day I will learn how to insert a PDF into my blog...

DOLLY'S OUTFIT.
The Brisbane Courier, (Brisbane, Australia); 1925
https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/11935929
This pattern uses fine yarn (sport-or fingering-weight) and UK needle sizes. Crochet instructions use English terms.

MANY dollies find new homes at Christmas time, and some of them will be badly in need of clothes. The three little garments illustrated are easily knitted by a beginner. They are principally done in stocking stitch, one row plain, purl back. The outfit measures 16 inches high and about 6 or 7 inches round.
FOR THE DRESS, one ball cream yarn is required with a little coloured floss for edging, two bone needles, No. 8 (US6, 4mm). Begin lower edge front, and cast on 55 stitches. Knit off.
1st pattern row. – K 2 tog twice, m 1 and k 1 three times, m. 1, k 2 tog twice; repeat to end of row.
2nd. – Purl. Repeat these two rows till eight holes deep. Stocking knit six rows, garter knit three ridges (six rows). Stocking knit six rows, garter knit three ridges (six rows). Stocking knit four rows.
Girdle Holes. – K 2, * m 1, k 2 tog, k 2; repeat from * to end k 3; stocking knit three rows. Cast on six stitches each end for sleeves and garter knit three ridges. Stocking knit 24 stitches. Cast off 19 for front of neck, and k six rows in stocking knitting on the remaining 24. Work up the first shoulder to match. Cast on 19 stitches for back of neck. Garter knit one ridge for top of shoulder. Stocking knit six rows, garter knit three ridges, cast off six stitches from each end and finish back to correspond to front of dress.
To Make Up. – Press all edges and lace on wrong side. Sew up underarm and sleeve seams. Crochet one dc round lower edge, neck and sleeves.
GIRDLE. – Crochet a chain in cream the required length, and work one dc down each side in the floss; thread through the holes and finish each end with a loop of silk; crochet round one in cream and one in coloured dc's.
FOR THE NIGHTGOWN, one hank of wool will be required, two No. 7 (US7, 4.5mm) bone needles, crochet hook size 0; ribbon for neck and waist. Begin at lower edge and cast on 44 stitches for front; k off.
1st pattern row. – S 1, k 3 * k 2 tog three times, m 1, k 1, three times, m 1, k 2, m 1, k 1, m 1, k 1, m 1, k 2 tog three times. Repeat from * finishing with k 4; purl back.
Repeat these two rows once more, stocking knit about nine inches.
Now make a row of ribbon holes, just as for the dress. After you have purled back, having 43 stitches on needle, knit four rows in stocking knitting, then cast on 4 stitches at each end for sleeves, and knit 4 more stocking rows.
Neck. – K. 19, m 1, and k 2 tog seven times, k 19; purl back.
2nd row.--K 20, m 1, cast off 11, m 1, k 19.
Right shoulder.--1st row: purl. 2^nd row: S 1, k 1, pass sl st over, k to end. Repeat these last two rows eight times.
Left Shoulder. – 1st row: Purl. 2nd row: K 19, m 1, s 1, k 1, pass sl st over. Repeat these two rows nine times.
Back of Neck. – Cast on nine stitches at end of the last row, and work across right shoulder, making one ribbon hole after casting on the nine stitches and before knitting across right shoulder, purl back.
Next row. – K 19, m 1 and k 2 tog six times, m 1, k 19, stocking knit five rows; cast off four stitches from each end, and finish back to match front. Cast off loosely. Seam up sides and underarms, crochet a tiny edging around neck and sleeves. Press on right side and run in ribbons
FOR THE PETTICOAT, part of a ball of wool is required, and the same needles as before. Cast on 77 stitches, and proceed as with the nightdress, but do double the width of fancy pattern, then knit in stocking stitch for 28 rows. Make a row of holes for waist as before, then stocking knit 14 rows. To divide for armholes, knit off 25 stitches for half of back, and on these knit 8 rows. Cast off tightly. Stocking knit 8 rows on the next 27 stitches to make the front and cast off as before. Lastly knit 8 rows on the last 25 for the other side of back and cast off. Seam the shoulders together, fasten end of placket opening, and put a narrow crochet edging round neck and armholes. Crochet a chain length for neck and waist and thread through, finishing the ends with tiny rings or tassels.

Trove #5 -- Gifts For Little Mothers

Here's a cuddly dress and bonnet for a 16" doll, courtesy of Trove. Click here to find the original pattern as published in the Brisbane Courier-Mail in 1938.

Here's my edited version of the pattern, because they can be very difficult to read.

GIFTS FOR   LITTLE MOTHERS – HOW TO OUTFIT THE BABY DOLL.

The Courier-Mail (Brisbane, Qld. Australia), 28 November 1938.

FATHER CHRISTMAS could not leave anything that would please the small girl better than a baby doll dressed in a woolly frock and bonnet. The dolls now available are so realistic that in the distance they could easily be mistaken for a real baby. Here are some directions for a frock and bonnet for a doll 16 in. long.

MATERIALS – required are two ounces white Shetland wool, 3 yards of half inch white silk ribbon one pair each of No. 10 (US3) and No. 9 (US5) knitting needles, a crochet hook, small buttons.

A PRETTY LACY PATTERN has been chosen for this outfit. Nine rows make the pattern, which is worked as follows, keeping always 2 stitches at each end of the row garter stitch.

1st row: K 1, k 2 tog..* k 4, m 1, k 1, m 1. k 4, k 3 tog , rep. from * to end of row.

2nd and every alternate row: Purl.

3rd row: K 1, k 2 tog., * k 3. m 1, k 3, m 1, k 3, k 2 tog., rep. from * to end of row. ,

5th row: K 1, k 2 tog., * k 2, m 1, k 3 tog., m 1, k 2, k 3 tog., rep. from * to end of. row.

7th row: K 1, k 2 tog.. * k 2, m 1, k 3 tog., m 1, k 2 tog., k 2, m 1, rep from * to the end of row.

9th row: K 1, k 2 tog., * k 3 tog., m 1 rep. from * to end of row.

FOR THE BONNET, use No. 9 knitting needles, cast on 53 stitches, and work half an inch in. garter stitch or plain knitting. Work on in pattern, making a hole at each end of needle by k 2 tog wool over needle every 4th row. Work without shaping for three patterns, then stop making holes and change from pattern to st. st, and shape for back as follows:— K 2, k 2 tog., * k 9 k 3 tog., repeat from * three times more, ending row k 2 tog., k 2. Next and every alternate row purl. Every plain row the sts. between the k 3 tog. will decrease by two. When only 13 remain altogether, draw thread through these sts, and draw up. Stitch up back for 2 ½ in.

FOR THE FROCK.— Using No 9 needles, cast on 63 stitches, and work garter or plain knitting till a quarter inch deep. .Change to the pattern and work six patterns in depth. Next row knit 2 together, k 3, repeat to end of row. Work a row of holes round waist and then change to moss stitch. Work 1 ½ inches, then cast on 10 stitches at the beginning of next two rows to form sleeves. Continue working, in moss stitch until 4 inches from the last pattern. Cast off the centre 9 stitches, and then knit 2 together at each side of neck every row until 22 stitches re main on each side, working both sides at once with two balls of wool. Work two rows without shaping. Cast off. Work the back of frock exactly the same as front, but work on without shaping for neck. When sleeves measure same as front. cast off right across the back. Join the sleeves together and the shoulders, leaving an opening of about an inch on each side. Work one row of double crochet round the neck, making two small loops on each shoulder for buttonholes. Crochet round the sleeves to make them fit the arm tightly. To make up, join all seams and press very lightly through a damp cloth. Thread the holes with ribbon, and stitch two ribbon strings and rosettes to the bonnet.  

Trove #4 - A Knitted Outfit for a 20" Doll

My girls had very large baby dolls, pretty well actual newborn baby size. I could buy small baby clothes at the thrift shop for them. This pattern would make a lovely fancy set for big Dolly. Included are directions for a singlet (undershirt), modesties (panties or diaper cover), jacket, bootees, and bonnet. I love the various terms I come across for the underwear. 

I use KnitPicks Palette yarn for most of my doll clothes. It knits very smoothly, is not fuzzy, and the colors are beautiful. It is a hand-wash yarn, so you may want to go for a machine-washable yarn.

A KNITTED OUTFIT FOR A 20” DOLL.

Weekly Times (Melbourne,Australia), October 1939.

She is not an expensive doll, but when the bonnet and jacket and bootees and dress are made, to be taken on and off (let us whisper it), there is underwear, too; well, some little girl is going to be very happy. A lovely present to make for Christmas time.

Materials Required. — 2 ½ oz. 2 ply (fingering) super wool. 1 reel fibrone (a silk thread), 1 pair No. 10 (US3, 3.00-3.25mm) needles, 1 steel crochet hook. No. 3, 4 buttons, 2 ½ yds. ½ inch ribbon. 1 yd. of ¼ in. ribbon, 20 in. celluloid doll.

Pattern (MS). 1st Row: Purl 1, *m 1, k 3. k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog.. k. 3. m 1, p. 2. repeat from *ending with p 1.

2nd and every alternate row: K. 1. p. 10. *k. 2. p. 10, rep from * ending with k. 1,

3rd Row: P. 1. *k. l, m1, k. 2, k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., k. 2, m. 1, k. 1, p. 2, rep. from * to last St.. p 1.

5th Row: P. 1 *k 2. m. l. k. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., k. 1. m. 1 k 2. p. 2. rep. from * to last St.. p. L

7th Row: P. 1. *k 3. m 1. k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., m 1, k 3. p. 2. rep from to last st. p. 1.

8th Row: K 1. p. 10. *k 2. p 10. rep from to last st., k. 1

BONNET. – Measurements: 5 ½ in. to centre back from front. 11 ½ in around face. Cast on 84 sts. Knit one row plain Work 2 patterns, then 24 rows of stocking stitch. Shape back by knitting tog. every 11th and 12th stitch. Next row purl. Knit tog. every 10th and 11th stitch Next row purl. Continue ro decrease in this way until 14 sts. remain on needle, ending with a purl row. Knit 2 tog. all across row. Break thread, leaving about 6 inches. Thread through darning needle, run through remaining sts., draw up tightly. Sew together the shaped portion of bonnet. With fibrone, work following edge all around bonnet. 1 double crochet into edge, 2 ch, 2 tr. in same place, miss 1 st. of foundation, repeat from all round. With ½ inch ribbon make rosettes for bonnet and sew on strings.

SINGLET.— Cast on 48 sts. Work 2 patterns. Work 40 rows st st. Cast off 10 st at beginning of next 2 rows. Work 8 rows of moss st (MS) on remaining 28 stitches. Then MS 5, cast off 18. MS 5. Work 14 rows moss st on these 5 st. then k 2, in 1, k 2 log, k 1. Next row: MS. Cast off. Join wool at neck edge, work other shoulder strap to correspond. Work back same as the front, but omit the buttonholes on shoulder. Sew up side seams. Sew on buttons. Work crochet edge same as bonnet around hem, armholes, and neck. Work around buttonholes to keep firm.

Measurements of singlet: Length 814 inch, chest 13 inch.

MODESTIES. — Cast on 48 sts. Work 2 rows of k 2, p 2, rib, then k 2, m 1, k 2 tog, all across row for ribbon holes. Work 5 rows of k 2, p 2, rib, 2 rows of st st, then work 2 patterns, then 8 rows of st st. Knit 2 together both ends of needle every alternate row till 18 sts remain. Cast off firmly and work another piece to correspond. Sew up side seams, and work crochet edge around legs, same as on bonnet. Thread ¼ inch ribbon through holes at waist.

Measurements: 6 ½ inch deep, 13 inch waist.

JACKET. — Cast on 72 sts for back. Knit 1 row plain, then work 2 patterns, then 18 rows st st. ending with a purl row. K 1, k 2 tog, across row, work 10 rows st st, then shape armhole by casting off 7 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. Then k 2 tog both ends of needle in the next 2 knit rows. Continue in st st on the remaining 30 sts for 18 rows. Cast off. Right Front. — 36 sts 1 row plain, work 2 patterns, then work in pattern on the first 12 sts and st st on remaining 24 sts for 18 rows, ending with a purl row. Then pattern 12, k 2 tog. k 1 to end of row (28 sts). Still keeping continuity of pattern at front, work 10 rows of st st to armhole. Next row cast off 7, work to end of row. K 2 tog at arm edge in the next 2 knit rows, then still keeping pattern at front, work on remaining stitches in st st for 16 rows, ending with a purl row. Cast off 12, knit 7. Work 10 rows. Cast off 12, 7. rows of st st on these 7 sts. Cast off. Work other front to correspond, working the 12 pattern st at end of needle instead of the beginning.

Measurements: Length, 7 ½ in., chest 13 ½ in., sleeve 3 ½ in.

SLEEVES. — Cast on 36 sts. Knit 1 row plain, knit 2 patterns, then work in st st, increasing 1st both ends of needle every 6th row till 42 sts on needle, and 22 rows st st worked. Take 2 tog. both ends of needle every row till 12 sts remain. Cast off. Sew up seams. Sew in sleeves. Work crochet edge round sleeves, neck front, and hem of jacket. Sew ribbon at front of neck to tie.

BOOTEES. — Cast on 36 sts. Knit 1 row plain, then work 1 pattern. Knit 4 rows st st, then k 4, k 2 tog across row. Next row purL Form ribbon holes by k 1, m 1, k 2 tog across row. Work 22 rows st st. Cast off. Sew up back seam and seam under foot. Press seam under foot so as it comes in centre of knitting and thus presses out the point made when seaming under foot. Crochet around top of bootee and thread ankle with ¼ in. ribbon.

DRESS. — Measurements : Length 12in., chest 13 ½ in., sleeve ½ in.

Front : Cast on 84 sts.

Knit 1 row plain.

Work 2 patterns, then 70 rows st st ending with a purl row.

Then k 1. k 2 tog across row (56 sts).

Next row: Purl.

Form ribbon holes as follows: k 2, m 1, k 2 tog, across row.

Next row: Purl

Then k 7, k 2 tog across row (50 sts).

Next row: Purl. .

Work 8 rows st st, then shape armhole by casting off 7 at beginning of next 2 rows, then k 2 tog both ends of needle in the next 2 knit rows. Work 15 rows in st st ending with a purl row.

Proceed as follows: k 8, cast off 16. k 8.

Work 10 rows st st on these 8 sts. Cast off.

Join wool at neck edge and work 10 rows st. st. on remaining 8 sts. Cast off.

Back. — Work back of frock same as front until 50 sts on needle, then proceed as follows:—

1st row: K 27 st, turn,

2nd row: K 4, p 23.

Repeat these 2 rows 3 times more, then shape the armhole by casting off 7 st at beginning of the next row. Then k 2 tog at armhole edge in the| next 2 knit rows. Form a button-hole at inside border on next row by k 2. m 1, k 2 tog, purl 14.

Work 14 rows st st, always keeping border at edge, then form another buttonhole as before.

Work 2 more rows, then cast off firmly.

Join wool at the inside edge of remaining 23 sts. Cast on 4 sts for placket. Work to correspond with other side omitting buttonholes.

SLEEVES. — Cast on 36 sts, knit 18 plain rows. Work 1 pattern, then k 2, m 1, k 2 tog for ribbon hole.

Next row purl. Knit twice into every 6th st, making 42 sts. Work 5 rows st st. then k 2 tog at both ends of needle every row till 14 sts remain. Cast off.

Work another sleeve to correspond. Sew up seams, sew in sleeves and sew on buttons. Work around buttonholes to keep firm. Work crochet around neck, sleeves and hem. Thread narrow ribbon through sleeves and wider ribbon at waist. All garments may be pressed lightly with hot iron and a damp cloth.  

Trove Doll Clothes #3 -- A Boy Doll

Who says dolls should always be in dresses? Here is a great Trove pattern for a boy's outfit for your baby doll. 

I love those leggings, which the pattern calls "long'uns". The ribbed pullover looks very grown-up on the little lad. 

This outfit is suitable for a Bitty Baby or Bitty Twin doll. I used sport-weight yarn and US6/4.0mm needles.

Here's my edited pattern, which will make your job easier. 

DRESSING THE CHRISTMAS DOLL – A SIMPLE KNITTED OUTFIT.

The Sydney Mail (Sydney, NSW, Australia), 25 November 1936.

So much interest was taken in the doll's outfit previously published in the Mail that we have had designed a set for a boy doll for those who will be dressing dolls for Christmas.

Measurements of Doll: Length, 15 inches.

Round Chest, 13 inches.

MATERIALS for all garments: 4oz of 4-ply wool; No. 8 (US6, 4.00 mm) needles. The pattern includes vest, 'long 'uns,' jumper, and cap.

THE VEST –

Materials: 1oz of 4-ply wool; No. 8 needles; ribbon ; crochet hook.

BEGIN at the lower edge of the back and cast on 47 stitches. Knit into the back threads plain and purlwise. The pattern: * K 2, p 2, repeat from * to the last stitch, k 1. Repeat this row to make the pattern, always knitting the last stitch in every row and beginning every row with k 2. When the work measures 5 inches, cast off 21 stitches in the centre; knit on the last 13 stitches until the shoulder measures 2 ½ inches; make the other side of the shoulder in the same way. Cast on 21 stitches between the two shoulders and knit in pattern for the back until it is the same measurement as the front. Cast off.

TO MAKE UP: — Sew up the side seams, leaving 2 ½ inches for the armholes. Work a row of crocheted holes round the neck for the ribbon, * 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble into 3rd stitch from first treble on the neck; repeat from * all round, joining the last 2 chain to the first treble; finish off neatly. Make ribbon-holes round each armhole in the same way. Thread with ribbon round neck and armholes.

THE 'LONG 'UNS'

Materials: No. 8 needles; 1-oz of 4-ply wool.

BEGIN at the waist and cast on 42 stitches with No. 8 needles. Knit into the back threads plain and purlwise. Work in a rib of k 2, p 2 for 8 rows. Make ribbon-holes: * K 2, wool over needle, k 2 together, repeat from * to the end of the row.

Work 6 rows of ribbing. Change to garter-stitch (all rows plain); k 8. turn, k 8, turn, k 16, turn, k 16, turn, k 20, turn, k 20, turn, k 26, turn, k 26; keep on in this way until all the stitches are knitted

into one row.

Knit 20 ribs (40 rows) at the longest edge. Shape the leg: Knit 2 together at each end of the needle in every other row 7 times.

Knit 10 ribs (20 rows) of garter-stitch. Change to a rib of k 2, p 2 for 6 rows; make ribbon-holes in the same way as the ribbon-holes at the waist are made.

Knit 3 rows of ribbing. Knit 18, turn, knit 8, knit on the last 8 stitches for 8 ribs (16 rows), pick up the stitches down either side of the instep and knit 2 plain rows. Knit 2 together twice in the centre of the foot for 3 rows. Knit 2 together at each end of the needles, as well as knit 2 together twice in the centre in every row 3 times. Cast off. Make the other side of the leg in the same way, being careful to see that the two fronts and backs will fit together.

TO MAKE UP: — Sew up the front and back seams. Sew up each leg seam and stitch the foot together. Thread with ribbon round both ankles and at the waist.

THE JUMPER –

With No. 8 needles begin at the lower edge and cast on 44 stitches. Knit into the back threads along the first row plain and purlwise. Work in a rib of k 2, p 2 for 10 rows. Change to the pattern. First Row: K 2, p 2. Second Row: Purl. Repeat the last 2 rows until the work measures 5 ½ inches.

Shape the armholes: Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows and decrease 1 stitch at each end of the needle in every other row 3 times. Knit until the armhole measures 2 ½ inches. Shape the shoulders by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of every row until there are 14 stitches left in the centre at the back of the neck. Cast off. Make the front in the same way until the armhole measures 11 inches. Cast off 6 stitches in the centre. Knit on one side only, knitting 2 together at the neck edge in every other row 4 times. When the armhole measures 2 ½ inches, shape the shoulder by casting off 3 stitches on the armhole edge in every other row until all stitches are cast off. Join in the wool on the other side of the neck and finish in the same way.

THE SLEEVES (BOTH ALIKE). — Pick up 32 stitches round the armhole. Knit in pattern, decreasing- 1 stitch at each end of the needle in every 5th row until there are 24 stitches. Knit until the sleeve measures 4 ½ inches at the underarm seam. Knit 8 rows of ribbing (k 2, p 2). Cast off.

TO MAKE UP.— Press with a moderate iron and a damp cloth. Sew up the side and sleeve seams. Sew up each shoulder for about 1 inch. Work one row of double crochet all round the neck and shoulder

openings. Add 1 button to each shoulder and crochet a loop for buttonholes on each side.

THE CAP –

Begin at the lower edge of the cap with No. 8 needles and cast on 70 stitches. Knit into the back threads. Work in rib of k 2, p 2 for 6 rows. Change to stocking-stitch and knit for 1 ½ inches.

Shape the top. * K 9, k 2 tog. repeat from * to the end of the row.

Purl. * K 8, k 2 tog, repeat from * to the end of the row.

Purl. * K 7, knit 2 tog, repeat from to the end of the row.

Purl. * K 6, k 2 tog, repeat from * to the end of the row.

Purl.

Keep on in this manner until it is k 1. k 2 tog all along the row. Break the wool and thread it to a darning-needle, slip all the stitches from the knitting needle on to the wool. Pull up into a loose circle pattern firmly, and sew up the back of the cap. Finish at the top with a pompom.

CLOTHES FOR THE DOLL THAT SANTA CLAUS BRINGS -- #2

Another Trove pattern for a dolly's wardrobe -- this one for an 18" baby doll. Here is the link to the original pattern published in The Australasian in November of 1935. I have attached my edited version for your convenience. It includes a dress, slip, vest, bloomers, hat, and shoes.

CLOTHES FOR THE DOLL SANTA CLAUS BRINGS.

A Hand-made Set for an 18-inch Doll

Designed for "The Australasian" by EVELYN PALMER

The Australasian, (Melbourne, Australia), November 1935

With Christmas just round the corner, and every small girl hoping Santa Claus will bring her a lovely big doll, it would be well for mother to set to work and make some clothes for this doll. The set pictured here is a delightful one, and is knitted in a very simple stitch, which will not take even the beginner very long to make. The original set was made in pale apple green, with a tiny line of white edging each garment, and the little vest made entirely of white. This is a set to delight the heart of any small girl. The set comprises a dress, slip, bloomers, and vest in knitting, and shoes and hat in crochet.

This hand-made set has been designed to fit a baby doll I5 inches high, but can be adjusted quite easily to fit a larger or smaller doll. Suggestions for adjusting the sizes are given in the instructions.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:—3oz. green 3-ply wool for dress, bloomers, hat, and shoes, 2oz. white 3-ply for vest and slip, a small quantity white Angora, a pair No. 9 (US5, 3.75mm) knitting needles, a fine bone hook, 1 yard white bebe ribbon, four small buttons for dress, some felt for shoe soles (an old slipper or hat). ABBREVIATIONS:—k. knit; p, purl; st, stitch; m, make a st; dc, double crochet.

DRESS:

Begin at lower edge of back skirt. Cast on loosely 92 sts. 1st Row.—Knit. 2nd Row.—p 4, *k 7, p 4, * repeat * to * to end. 3rd Row.—p 4, *m 1, p 2, p 3 together, p 2, m 1, p 4, " repeat * to * to end. Repeat last two rows 25 times (more or less for larger or smaller dolls.

BODICE.—Knit the next row. Next Row.— p each 3 sts together and last two together, leaving 31 sts. Next Row.—k 1, *m 1, k 2 together,* repeat *to * to end. Next three rows.—Work in moss st.

Shape armholes, still working in moss. Next Two Rows.—Cast off first 2 sts. (27). Next Two Alternate Rows.—Decrease 1 st at each end (23). Work 2in. without alteration, then cast off loosely. FRONT.—Work in same manner as back, until the 23 sts have been worked for l ½ in., then shape neck as follows:— Next Row.—Moss 7, cast off 9 loosely, moss 7. Work each 7 sts for l in., then cast off. SLEEVES.—Cast on 37 sts. Work in pattern as for skirt for 12 rows. Cast off. Make another sleeve. To Make Up.—Press all parts. Join the front to back by overlapping the outer edge of front shoulders over those of back about 4in. The remainder of shoulders are finished with two loops and buttons cm each. Finish the neck with a shell edge, edged with angora. Sew the cast-off edge of sleeves to arm holes, then sew side and sleeve seams. Make a chain cord of Angora, and thread through holes at waist..

SLIP:

Cast on 92 sts, and work as for dress for 11 rows. Now continue in stocking st.

12th Row.—Decrease 1 st at each end (90). Decrease five times each following 5th row.17th Row.—p each 17th and 18th sts together (85). 22nd Row.—k each 16th and 17th sts together. 27th Row.—p each 15th and 16th sts together. 32nd Row.—k each 14th and 15th sts together. 37th Row.—p each 13th and 14th sts together. 42nd Row.—k each 12th and 13th sts together. 47th Row.—p each 11th and 12th sts together. 52nd Row.—k each 10th and 11th sts together. 57tb Row.—p each 9th and 10th sts together. 62nd Row.—k each 8th and 9th sts together (40). Continue without shaping until the slip measures the same length as dress to armholes. Shape Neck.—Knit 15 sts, cast off 10, k 15. Work each side separately. Decrease 1 st at each end of next four alternate rows, leaving 7 sts. Moss these until slip is same length as dress. Cast off. Work back in same manner. Press work, join side and shoulder seams. Finish neck and armholes with shell edge.

BLOOMERS: Made in two pieces in stocking stitch. Cast on 46 sts for one leg. Work 4 rows without alteration. Shape now by increasing 1 st at each end of every knit row until there are 60 sts, and then decreasing 1 st at each end of every 2nd knit row until 50 remain. Work four rows without alteration, then cast off. Make another leg. Press work. Join the leg which are the short ones, then join the two legs together by the long seams. Turn a hem of four rows up on each leg, and also at the waist. Thread with elastic to fit doll.

VEST: Cast on 45 sts. Work in broken rib for 6 in. Each row to be k 2, p 2. Continue yoke in garter st (each row knit) for 2in., then shape neck. Next Row-—k 12, cast off 21, k 12. Work each side for 1 ½ in., then cast on 21 sts for back of neck. Continue across the 45 sts for 14 in., then work 6in. of broken rib. Cast off. Finish neck with a row of crocheted holes and a row of shell. Join the ribbed side seams, and leave yoke even for armholes, which are finished with a shell edge. Thread neck with bebe ribbon.

HAT: Use wool double, make a chain of 4 sts, join into a ring, and into this work 8 dc. 1st Bound.—2 dc into each of the 8 dc.

2nd Round.—Increase In each 2nd st. 3rd Round.—Increase in each 3rd st. 4th Round.—Increase in each 4th st. Continue working thus, leaving 1 extra st between the decreases each round. When circle is 4in. across (for 14in. to 15in. head) work without alteration for desired depth (about 3in.), then make a row of spaces. Next Round.—*1 chain, miss 1 st, 1 dc into next ", repeat * to * to end of round. Next Round.—1 dc into each dc, and 2 dc into each space. Next Round.—1 dc into each dc of last round. Work eight rounds without alteration, and final one in white Angora. Make a cord of Angora, and thread through holes to complete hat. Press.

SHOES:

First cut pattern for sole by placing doll's foot on paper and drawing round with a pencil. Cut two soles in felt to pattern. Uppers.—Make a chain with double wool, join and see if foot will pass through this loop easily. Make larger or smaller to fit doll. Work in rounds in dc, 1 into each st until centre st of loop is reached. Into this st work 3 dc, then continue with I dc into remainder of sts. Work three more rows, always working 3 dc into the centre st of the previous increase. See now if work will cover doll's foot; if so work two rows without alteration to complete upper. Make more increases if not large enough. Join soles to uppers with increases to centre front. Finish top of shoe with one row of white ones, then Joint the two legs together by the long seams. Turn a hem of four rows up on each leg, and also at the waist. Thread with elastic to fit doll.

Winter Woollies For The Doll Family

I've been editing many, many patterns for doll clothes from Trove, the National Library Of Australia's website for defunct newspapers. Here's a sweet one for a complete set of clothes for a 12" baby doll. It includes a vest (undershirt), pilchers (panties), a petticoat, a dress, and a matinee jacket. The photo includes a bonnet, which is published in a later issue of the Sydney Mail. It dates from January, 1936. The 30's was the decade with the most patterns for doll's clothes, most likely reflecting the need for mothers to make home-made gifts for their little ones during the Great Depression. Check out the original pattern here.

Here's a re-write I did of the pattern that you may find useful. 

WINTER WOOLLIES FOR THE DOLL FAMILY.

Since every child likes variety, a set of winter clothes for the doll family will be warmly welcomed.

The Sydney Mail (NSW, Australia), Wednesday 29 January 1936.

This little knitted set is made to fit a 12-inch doll.

Materials: 2 oz of 2-ply wool, 3 ½ yards of ribbon, No. 10 (US 3. 3.25mm) needles.

THE VEST:

Begin at the lower edge of the back and cast on 40 stitches. Knit into the back threads and then knit in a fancy rib.

1st Row: * 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from * to the end of the row.

2nd Row: Purl.

Repeat these 2 rows to form the pattern. When the work measures 5 inches, cast off 20 stitches in the centre — knit on one shoulder only for 24 rows. Join in the wool on the other side of the shoulder and make this side exactly the same as the other shoulder. Cast on 20 stitches in the centre of the two shoulder-straps and knit in pattern until the front is the same length as the back. Cast off.

Press lightly, sew up the side seams, allowing an opening of 2 inches at the armholes.

Crochet ribbon holes round the neck. 3 chain * 1 treble into neck of the shirt 2 chain repeat from * all round neck; finish off. Crochet round armholes. Thread the neck with ribbon.

THE PILCHERS:

Begin at the front and cast on 40 stitches. Knit into the back threads along the first row. Rib 2 plain, 2 purl for 4 rows.

Make ribbon holes; * 2 plain, wool over the needle knit 2 together, repeat from * to the end of the row. Rib for another 4 rows.

The Pattern: 1st row, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to the end of the row.

2nd Row: Purl.

Repeat these 2 rows to form the pattern.

Knit until the work measures 2 inches and then shape the legs. Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows (9 stitches from each leg). Knit in pattern for 12 rows. Cast on 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows. Knit in pattern until the work measures 2 inches. To shape the back, knit to within 10 stitches of the end of the row in pattern, turn, and knit to within 10 stitches of the other end of the row. Knit on, taking up to 2 extra stitches from each end of the needle until all stitches are knitted into one row again.

Rib 2 plain, 2 purl for 4 rows. Make the ribbon holes and finish with a further 4 rows of ribbing. Cast off.

To Make Up: Sew up the side seams after having pressed the work lightly. Crochet a row of double crochet round each leg. Thread with ribbon at the waist.

THE PETTICOAT:

Begin at the lower edge of the back and cast on 66 stitches. Knit into the back threads along the first row.

Knit in pattern. 1st Row: Knit 2, wool forward, * knit 2, knit 2 together twice, knit 2, wool forward knit 1, wool forward and repeat from * to the end of the row.

2nd Row: Purl. These two rows form the lace pattern. Work 8 lace patterns. Change to the fancy ribbed stitch that the vest has been made in, and when the work measures 6 inches make ribbon holes in the same way as the ribbon holes were made in the pilchers.

Knit 2 together here and there across the skirt until there are 40 stitches left.

Continue in pattern for 1 inch. Cast off 20 stitches in the centre for the neck. Knit on one side only for 21 inches. Make the other side of the neck in the same way. Cast on 20 stitches in the centre, work for 1 inch, increase to 66 stitches again.

Make ribbon holes and finish the front of skirt in exactly the same way as the back was made, finishing with 8 pattern rows and casting off loosely. Press gently. Sew up the side seams, allowing the top part of the petticoat to act as armholes. Crochet ribbon holes round the neck and work a row of double crochet round each armhole. Thread at waist and neck with ribbons.

THE FROCK:

BEGIN at the lower edge of the front and cast on 84 stitches. Knit into the back threads along the first row.

Knit in pattern. 1st Row: Knit 2, wool forward * knit 2, knit 2 together twice, knit 2, wool forward knit 1, wool forward repeat from * to the knit 1, wool forward repeat from * to the end of the row.

2nd Row: Purl. Repeat these two rows to make the pattern.

Work 8 patterns and then on the wrong side of the work.

Knit 1 row.

Knit 1 row.

Purl 1 row.

In every 8th pattern vary it, working the 3 rows already given.

When the skirt measures in 7 ½ inches decrease for the waist. Knit 2 together here and there until there are 40 stitches.

Make the ribbon holes. Work in garter switch (every row plain) for II inches. To shape the neck, cast off 15 stitches in the centre, knit on one side only for 8 rows. Join the wool in on the other side

of the neck and make this side to correspond with the one just completed. Cast on 7 stitches at the neck edge and work for another 1 ½ inches. Make the other side of the back in the same way. Knit straight across the two back pieces. Make ribbon holes, and increase in the next row to 84 stitches.

Knit in pattern and make the skirt to match the front.

Cast off slackly.

Press lightly. Sew up the side seams to just above the ribbon holes. Crochet round the neck and take it in a little to make it fit the doll's neck. Crochet round each armhole. Put a button on the back and crochet a loop for a buttonhole. Thread with ribbon at the waist.

THE COAT:

BEGIN at the lower edge of the back and cast on 48 stitches. Knit into the back threads.

Knit in pattern: — 1st Row: Knit 2, wool forward, * knit 2, knit 2 together twice, knit 2 wool forward, knit 1, wool forward; repeat from * to the end of the row.

2nd Row: Purl. Repeat the last two rows to make the pattern.

After the 8th pattern. On the wrong side of the work, Knit 1 row.

Knit 1 row.

Purl 1 row.

Work another 8 rows of pattern.

The pattern for the yoke:

1st Row: * 2 plain, 2 purl, repeat from * to the end of the row (on the right side of the work).

2nd Row: Purl.

3rd Row: * 2 purl, 2 plain, repeat from * to the end of the row.

4th Row: Purl.

Repeat the last 4 rows to make the pattern.

After the 1st row of the pattern, cast on 20 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the sleeves. When the sleeves measure 2 inches, cast off 20 stitches in the centre for the back of the neck. Knit on one side only. Knit in pattern for 8 rows.

Cast on ten stitches at the neck edge. Knit in pattern, keeping 5 stitches at the front edge knitted in garter stitch (every row plain) to make a border to go down the front. When the sleeve measures the same as the back part of the sleeve, cast off 20 stitches. Increase in the next row to 35 stitches. Knit in pattern for 30 stitches and work the 5 border stitches in garter stitch. Make the front the same length as the back. Cast off. Make the other front the same. Press. Sew up.

Make ribbon holes round neck. Crochet round sleeves, taking them in slightly to make them puff. Thread with ribbon.

(The Bonnet instructions will be published next week.)

To see the original article, see https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/160637571?searchTerm=doll%20winter%20woollies&searchLimits=l-illustrated=true|||l-title=703

Knitting in the past -- the 1840s

I love to knit. It is so relaxing and keeps my hand busy while I'm watching television, listening to music, or filling in time while I volunteer at the library. However, there comes a point where I've knitted all the shawls, sweaters, scarves, etc. that I will ever use. Knitted gifts are a problem, as all knitting involves a lot of work that is often not appreciated enough to make it worthwhile.

I also love historical needlework and began browsing scanned copies of ladies' magazines and knitting manuals from the 1800s. I organized huge files of books and patterns,and put scads of them on Pinterest.The advent of knitting pattern books seems to be in the 1840s. The best from that decade, in my opinion, are My Knitting Book, by Miss Frances Lambert (1843), and Exercises in Knitting, by Cornelia Mee (1846). There are several other authors who published similar books, but most of them are direct copies of the same patterns. As it is, Miss Lambert and Mrs. Mee's offerings are pretty much the same. 

One of the great drawbacks of these early manuals is the lack of illustrations. It would really be a plus to know what the garment or stitch pattern looks like before you knit it! However, if you think of the difficulty of making a picture of knitting, no wonder there are none. Pictures to be printed had to be engraved and it was not until the 1880s that a process was perfected to print actual photographs in books and newspapers. Imagine the detail necessary to engrave the image of a piece of knitting! It would drive up the cost of the book tremendously. Words-only patterns stretched my ability to mentally imagine the construction of a garment. I also made many small samples of stitch patterns. The Ravelry website has many pictures of Lambert and Mee's patterns. If you haven't signed up to Ravelry (and I'm shocked if you haven't), do it right now. It's free and chock-full of fabulous patterns, help, and groups to join.

Vintage Sweater for a KAL

I am going to be moving in the next few months and am busy packing up all my craft supplies. I've set aside a few things to keep the hands busy during the evenings and one is a cardigan from Columbia-Minerva booklet #735, Casual Quick Hand-Knits, from 1960. It's my project for the KAL in the Ravelry group, All Things Vintage. The knitting pattern must be published between 1948-1962. I found the pattern on the Free Vintage Knitting site here.

This looks like a comfortable sweater. So many sweaters from this time have very small waist, which I do not have! I'm using a worsted-weight yarn, Paton's Canadiana. It's a cheerful light blue, slightly aqua. I think it's a discontinued color, as I can't find it on the color charts. I like the label with the Tom Thompson "Jack Pine" painting on it.