Procrastination Switch -- HSMC 2016, January

The Historical Sew Monthly Challenge for January was Procrastination. I was planning to finish my major put-off, the 1830s stays I really need to go under the 1830s dress I have planned, but will have to keep them on hold a while longer. I have to travel about 50 miles to go to a fabric store and this has not been the month to do that.

So I turned to another project I've had languishing in a bag - a 1910s sweater jacket. I love to knit and do a lot of it during the winter months. I really like the big sweater look of the late 1910s and early 20s. In my climate, a large cardigan is such a practical garment, keeping off the chill indoors over the winter, and great for outdoors in spring and fall. My ex-hubby's grandmother was an Old Order Mennonite born in 1900 and told me about the debate over women wearing cardigan sweaters when she was a teenager. They were so practical, but obviously a modern fashion, so some people thought they should be avoided. Practicality won the day, and she was glad.

Here is the sweater I wanted to copy. It's from the Columbia Book of Yarns by Anna Schumacker, dated 1915, and the pattern is available here for free. I colored the photo to match the yarn I used. The body is a deep brown with tweed flecks of yellow, red, orange, and blue. The trimming is bright yellow wool, all knitted in garter stitch, and it really brings out the yellow flecks. 

Here is my new sweater! I can see I will be wearing this a lot.

January, 2016

The Challenge: Procrastination

Material: 100% Wool yarn, worsted weight. Brown tweed and solid yellow.

Pattern: Ladies’ Knitted Sweater from The Columbia Book of Yarns, Anna Schumacker, 1915.

Year: 1915

Notions: 6 vegetable ivory buttons

How historically accurate is it? 100%

Hours to complete: Too many to count!

First worn: Today

Total cost: Thrift store finds

New year, new plans

Probably the biggest excitement for me when starting the new year is the 2016 Challenge List for the Historical Sew Monthly Challenge. (I know, sad life!) I am more of a planner than a doer, I know. Getting that list of topics for sewing starts me on a binge of sorting through my fabric stash and searching for patterns. My computer is bulging with inspiration. Now let's see how many actual garments I produce...

January is "Procrastination", meaning I've got to do something I've put off and put off and put off. And that means corsets or stays. I really avoid doing them because of the fitting problems, but you can't wear the clothes without the proper shape underneath. Fortunately, I came across this great German costuming site (also in English) Kleidung um 1800 that has some excellent patterns for early 1800s short stays. I plan to make one wrap-style undergarment and one with back lacing. These stays have no or minimal boning. Sabine digs out all sorts of excellent documentation, clear patterns, and a step-by-step tutorial. 

I've got the pieces cut out, so that's a start. Keep it up, girl!

Sabine's wrap stays with no boning

Sabine's laced stays - so simple!

Showing off my undies!

Thank heavens, the Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge has now become a Monthly Challenge, giving us much-needed time to actually complete projects! As the January challenge was for undergarments, I kinda went overboard on my 1830s theme and made almost a whole set. 

I bought some lurvely lightweight linen from the wonderful Fabric-store.com. Their fabric is very reasonably priced and washes up so soft. I wish I had bought more! 

I am drawing on the patterns in The Workwoman's Guide, a late 1830's publication. The simple patterns are easy to figure out and work so much better for me and my workaday wardrobe, as opposed to the fancy formal clothes in other books I have. First I made a shift. I'd like to make a lighter one later on, or a petticoat with an attached sleeveless bodice.

A page from the Workwoman's Guide

Next came the petticoat. I corded a few rows around the bottom for a bit of shape and added a crocheted edging. The waistband has a tape through it and ties in the back.

I made a nice pair of drawers from the WG, which I don't have a photo of, as split drawers are not easy to display, and I'm sure not going to model them for you! They look something like these, without the edging.


I had enough linen scraps to make a pair of sleeve puffs to fill out the absurdly puffy sleeves of the 1830s. I must give credit to my four goosies who gave up their lives and their feathers. I did miss them when they were gone, but they have been delicious so far. I salvaged a large trash bag of down and small feathers. A very messy job, sorting down! I used this pattern.

Here are the geese, spying on me, as they loved to do.

Ever feel like you're being watched?

I did begin a corset, but haven't finished it. And probably won't. I need more help with fitting and the fabric I used was too thick for hand-sewing. I did have to laugh. I tried it on, wearing a pair of loose pajama bottoms. I tighted the spiral back laces, and whoops!, my pants fell to the floor. Those things really do alter one's figure!