The Mandarin Hat

Another smart knitted hat from Trove, published in The Sunday Mail, 12 May,1935. It is knitted in the round with sport-weight yarn on smaller needles than you might normally use, which creates a thick fabric. The narrow brim is wired to give it a perky edge.

The edited pattern follows: 

THE MANDARIN HAT

The Sunday Mail (Brisbane, Qld. Australia), 12 May 1935.

This smart little mandarin hat is quite simple to make and is cleverly wired to give a special tilt and becoming suggestion of a brim. The ribbed edge makes the hat fit snugly and grip well. Two ounces of 4 ply wool (sport weight), a set of 4 No. 11 (US2 or 3, 3.0mm) knitting needles, pointed at both ends,and one yard of thick round hat wire are required for the making.

Measurements: Depth from top of centre of crown to edge of band 10-1/2 inches: size round head 16 inches, stretching to fit.

Tension: 7 stitches to 1 inch in width, and 11 rows to 1 inch in depth.

Abbrev.: K, knit; p, purl- sts., stitches; st-st. stocking stitch: tog., together: rep., repeat; dec, decrease or decreasing. Always work into the back of all cast-on stitches to produce firm edges. Begin at the outer edge of crown.

Cast on 132 sts., on three needles (44 on each of 3), then work round with 4th needle as follows:— 1st and 2nd, rounds— *K, 2, p. 2. rep. from* all, round; 3rd and 4th rounds— *p. 2, k. 2, rep. from * all round. Rep. these 4 rows twice more (12 rounds in all).Now k. 12 plain rounds, then rep. the first4 the shaping for the top. 1st round — K. every 10^th and 11th sts. tog. (120). 2nd and every alternate round— K. without dec. 3rd round.— K. every 9^th and 10th sts. tog. (108).5th round.— K. every 6th and 9th st-sts.tog. (96).7th round— K. every 7th and 8th sts tog- (84). 9th round.— K. every 6th and 7th sts.tog. (72). 11th round.— K every 5th and 6th sts. tog. (60). 13th round.— K. every 4th and 5th sts. tog. (48). 15th round.— K. every 3rd and 4th sts. tog. (36).K- 5 rounds without dec. 21st round.— K. every 2nd and 3rd sts. tog. (24). K. 5 rounds without dec 27th round.— K. 2 tog. all round(12) K. 5 rounds without dec. 33rd round.— K. 2 tog. all round (6). 34th round.— K. 6 Cut wool,leaving a short length, thread into a wool needle,then slip through the remaining ,draw up and darn in end. For the band, begin at the outer edge to fit round the outer edge of the crown. Cast on 132 sts. (44 on each of 3 needles) and work round with the of 3 needles)

and work round with the 4th needle as follows:— Work the first 12 rounds in pattern as on the crown. Then k. every round in plain, but shape as follows: — 13th round.— K. every10th and 11th sts. tog. (120).K. 11 rounds without dec. 25th round.— K every 9th and 10th sts. tog. (108). K 9 rounds without dec. 35th round. — K 2, k. 2 tog. * K. 15,k. 2 tog. Rep. from *. finishing k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog. -100 sts.). Now work 9 inch in k. 2, p. 2 rib,then cast off in the rib. but not tightly. Press work on wrong side with a warm iron and damp cloth. Sew outer edge of band to outer edge of crown on wrong side:press seam. Now join the wire in a circle measuring 9 inches in diameter, then slip wire into crown when it meets the band. Join the wire together by binding with strong thread.

Marie Scarf and Beret

The 1930s was an era of snappy little hats. Look at these cuties -- they're like head jewelry!      

        
I remember my mother saying that her mother would make  coats for herself and Mom. She'd take the leftover fabric to a hatmaker to make a jaunty matching hat.                             





Here's a knitted beret with a matching scarf from 1938, published in The Queensland Times, through the Trove collection.
 And here's my brushed-up version. 

"MARIE" SCARF AND BERET.

The Queensland Times (Ipswich, Qld., Australia), Monday 11 April 1938.

This is a very cosy set for winter mornings, and, made in brightly-coloured wool, will add brightness and chic to your costume for the remainder of the winter.

Using 3-ply super (probably sock weight), you will require: For the beret, l oz. medium, l oz.. dark, small quantity light. For the scarf, l oz. medium, 2 oz. dark, small quantity light, 2 bone knitting needles, No. 9 (US5, 3.75mm.); bone crochet hook, No. 12.

Measurements: The beret: round the lower edge, 21 inches; depth from centre crown to lower edge, when finished, 7 in. The scarf: length not including fringe, 50 in.; width, 9 in. Always knit into back of each cast-on stitch.

The Beret

For a section.-- Using dark, commence at point, casting on 3 stitches,

First 2 rows: Knit.

3rd row: K 1, k 2 into next st, k 1.

Next 3 rows: Knit.

7th row: K2 into first st, knit until 1 remains, k 2 into last st. Repeat from * 11 times (28 stitches).

Knit 28 rows garter-stitch. Cast off. Make two more sections in same way with dark wool, then make three with medium wool.

The Scarf.

Using dark, cast on 26 stitches. Knit in garter-stitch until work measures 50 in. when pressed. Cast off. Knit another strip in same way with dark wool, then knit one with medium wool.

To Make Up.

Press all pieces lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth with a hot iron.

The Beret.-Sew the sections together, alternately one medium and one dark. Using light wool work knot stitch (or close chain-stitch) over the join where the sections are sewn together. Using dark - wool finish lower edge with three rounds of d.c drawing into size required.

The Scarf.-Sew the strips together, the medium one in centre with a dark one each side. With light wool work knot-stitch over the joins. For the fringe, cut wool into 6-inch strands, and knot into ends of the scarf, using colour to correspond with each section.

Trove #7 -- Doll's Leggings

These leggings are surprisingly easy to make. They will fit a doll 12-14" in length. The original pattern, here, includes a pair of baby bootees, which I have omitted, since they are not for dolls. My edited pattern follows.

KNITTED DOLL LEGGINGS.

The Maitland Daily Mercury (NSW, Australia), Saturday 26 January 1935.

The doll's 'leggingettes' take one ounce of two-ply wool, and are knitted on number twelve (US2) needles. They should fit a 12-14 inch doll.

Start at the waist by casting on 34 stitches, and work four rows in two plain, two purl ribbing.

Now make the holes for the elastic: *Knit four, make one, knit two together, repeat from * to the end of the row.

Knit six more rows of ribbing, then knit plain for four inches.

Now decrease one stitch at each end of the work every other row, until you have reduced the stitches to 30, then work 12 rows without shaping.

Next row: Knit three, make one; knit two together; continue from to the end of the row. Continue in plain knitting for four rows, then divide the stitches for the foot.

Next row, knit ten, and on the next (middle) ten stitches work backwards and forwards for 12 rows.

Break off the wool, and join to where the ten stitches were left, then, with the same needle, pick up six stitches along the side of the instep flap and also ten stitches across the toe.

Take a spare needle and knit ten toe stitches, pick up six stitches down the other side of the instep flap, and also work the remaining ten stitches on to the same needle.

Knit across all the stitches for six rows, then decrease one stitch at both ends of the needles, for four rows and cast off. This completes one leg. Make another to match, then join the feet and leg seams, thread elastic through the waist, and ribbons through the holes at the ankle parts.

Trove Doll Clothes #3 -- A Boy Doll

Who says dolls should always be in dresses? Here is a great Trove pattern for a boy's outfit for your baby doll. 

I love those leggings, which the pattern calls "long'uns". The ribbed pullover looks very grown-up on the little lad. 

This outfit is suitable for a Bitty Baby or Bitty Twin doll. I used sport-weight yarn and US6/4.0mm needles.

Here's my edited pattern, which will make your job easier. 

DRESSING THE CHRISTMAS DOLL – A SIMPLE KNITTED OUTFIT.

The Sydney Mail (Sydney, NSW, Australia), 25 November 1936.

So much interest was taken in the doll's outfit previously published in the Mail that we have had designed a set for a boy doll for those who will be dressing dolls for Christmas.

Measurements of Doll: Length, 15 inches.

Round Chest, 13 inches.

MATERIALS for all garments: 4oz of 4-ply wool; No. 8 (US6, 4.00 mm) needles. The pattern includes vest, 'long 'uns,' jumper, and cap.

THE VEST –

Materials: 1oz of 4-ply wool; No. 8 needles; ribbon ; crochet hook.

BEGIN at the lower edge of the back and cast on 47 stitches. Knit into the back threads plain and purlwise. The pattern: * K 2, p 2, repeat from * to the last stitch, k 1. Repeat this row to make the pattern, always knitting the last stitch in every row and beginning every row with k 2. When the work measures 5 inches, cast off 21 stitches in the centre; knit on the last 13 stitches until the shoulder measures 2 ½ inches; make the other side of the shoulder in the same way. Cast on 21 stitches between the two shoulders and knit in pattern for the back until it is the same measurement as the front. Cast off.

TO MAKE UP: — Sew up the side seams, leaving 2 ½ inches for the armholes. Work a row of crocheted holes round the neck for the ribbon, * 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble into 3rd stitch from first treble on the neck; repeat from * all round, joining the last 2 chain to the first treble; finish off neatly. Make ribbon-holes round each armhole in the same way. Thread with ribbon round neck and armholes.

THE 'LONG 'UNS'

Materials: No. 8 needles; 1-oz of 4-ply wool.

BEGIN at the waist and cast on 42 stitches with No. 8 needles. Knit into the back threads plain and purlwise. Work in a rib of k 2, p 2 for 8 rows. Make ribbon-holes: * K 2, wool over needle, k 2 together, repeat from * to the end of the row.

Work 6 rows of ribbing. Change to garter-stitch (all rows plain); k 8. turn, k 8, turn, k 16, turn, k 16, turn, k 20, turn, k 20, turn, k 26, turn, k 26; keep on in this way until all the stitches are knitted

into one row.

Knit 20 ribs (40 rows) at the longest edge. Shape the leg: Knit 2 together at each end of the needle in every other row 7 times.

Knit 10 ribs (20 rows) of garter-stitch. Change to a rib of k 2, p 2 for 6 rows; make ribbon-holes in the same way as the ribbon-holes at the waist are made.

Knit 3 rows of ribbing. Knit 18, turn, knit 8, knit on the last 8 stitches for 8 ribs (16 rows), pick up the stitches down either side of the instep and knit 2 plain rows. Knit 2 together twice in the centre of the foot for 3 rows. Knit 2 together at each end of the needles, as well as knit 2 together twice in the centre in every row 3 times. Cast off. Make the other side of the leg in the same way, being careful to see that the two fronts and backs will fit together.

TO MAKE UP: — Sew up the front and back seams. Sew up each leg seam and stitch the foot together. Thread with ribbon round both ankles and at the waist.

THE JUMPER –

With No. 8 needles begin at the lower edge and cast on 44 stitches. Knit into the back threads along the first row plain and purlwise. Work in a rib of k 2, p 2 for 10 rows. Change to the pattern. First Row: K 2, p 2. Second Row: Purl. Repeat the last 2 rows until the work measures 5 ½ inches.

Shape the armholes: Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows and decrease 1 stitch at each end of the needle in every other row 3 times. Knit until the armhole measures 2 ½ inches. Shape the shoulders by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of every row until there are 14 stitches left in the centre at the back of the neck. Cast off. Make the front in the same way until the armhole measures 11 inches. Cast off 6 stitches in the centre. Knit on one side only, knitting 2 together at the neck edge in every other row 4 times. When the armhole measures 2 ½ inches, shape the shoulder by casting off 3 stitches on the armhole edge in every other row until all stitches are cast off. Join in the wool on the other side of the neck and finish in the same way.

THE SLEEVES (BOTH ALIKE). — Pick up 32 stitches round the armhole. Knit in pattern, decreasing- 1 stitch at each end of the needle in every 5th row until there are 24 stitches. Knit until the sleeve measures 4 ½ inches at the underarm seam. Knit 8 rows of ribbing (k 2, p 2). Cast off.

TO MAKE UP.— Press with a moderate iron and a damp cloth. Sew up the side and sleeve seams. Sew up each shoulder for about 1 inch. Work one row of double crochet all round the neck and shoulder

openings. Add 1 button to each shoulder and crochet a loop for buttonholes on each side.

THE CAP –

Begin at the lower edge of the cap with No. 8 needles and cast on 70 stitches. Knit into the back threads. Work in rib of k 2, p 2 for 6 rows. Change to stocking-stitch and knit for 1 ½ inches.

Shape the top. * K 9, k 2 tog. repeat from * to the end of the row.

Purl. * K 8, k 2 tog, repeat from * to the end of the row.

Purl. * K 7, knit 2 tog, repeat from to the end of the row.

Purl. * K 6, k 2 tog, repeat from * to the end of the row.

Purl.

Keep on in this manner until it is k 1. k 2 tog all along the row. Break the wool and thread it to a darning-needle, slip all the stitches from the knitting needle on to the wool. Pull up into a loose circle pattern firmly, and sew up the back of the cap. Finish at the top with a pompom.