Monday, February 24, 2014

Life Cuts Into Sewing Time

I was so pumped up about my pink little girl's dress, but have had to put it  on the back burner for awhile. For one thing, sewing that slippery silk was maddening. I was making all those ruffles by hand and as things went on, I began to look at the whole thing as a hideous mess. That means it's time to step back. 

Also, I leave for a trip to England next week and it's better to be prepared for that and come back to a clean house. My dear Dad, with whom I live, turns 90 in March and he has decided to celebrate with what he says is his last trip to the old country. Dad's family emigrated from England to the US in 1916, halfway through the births of nine children. He was born in the US, being the 8th child, but his family kept strong ties to the family across the Pond. In their retirement, Mom and Dad made frequent trips, making new friends while they visited the old. I'm quite excited about the adventure, as I haven't been in on these visits, and realize I'm probably the one who will keep up the connection to the Barclay tribe on the other side. 

The Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge has "Under It All" and "Bodice" coming up shortly, and those are things I need greatly. I've got things going in that direction, but am having endless trouble with fitting. I really, really need a dressmaker's form, and the money to buy one. A couple of years ago, I tried the duct tape method and it ended up being one big bag of duct tape. It was firmly stuffed with heavy sweaters, but still sagged and stretched. Out in the trash! I make my own patterns and I'm beginning to wonder if I've lost my knack. It really does sound like it's time to step away from the sewing machine for a bit. 

I've discovered an entertaining sewing blog called The New Vintage Lady. Shelley is a talented artist who resizes patterns from the 1930s and 1940s for the Plus Size Lady. I hate to admit that I have become one of them, but thank goodness for Shelley! I am really tempted by this pattern from her Etsy shop. Very versatile pattern!

Late 1910s blouse in a 46 bust!


Thursday, February 13, 2014

HSFC #3 PINK! Inspiration


Now pink is not a color I wear, unless it's a very coral pink. But, do you know who loves pink? Every little girl on the planet! What little girl doesn't wish she had a silky pink dress with ruffles and bows and some sort of flower thing going on, and while we're at it, matching ruffly bloomers so her panties don't show when she pirouettes? I happened to have a very old piece of silky pink fabric I had no idea what to do with.  With the year 1920 in mind, I found a goldmine of inspiration online.

I colorized this photo of an adorable toddler, but you just know that dress was originally pink. This type of dress was quite popular. The style is very simple: a lined slip-on dress with bound neckline and sleeves, and a very deep hem which can be taken down as Susie grows.  The string tie at the neck tightens or loosens the neckline.


This dress is a bit more detailed than I care to do, but I liked the fabric flower at the shoulder. I want to add that to my little dress.

An interesting bit of history: the idea that pink  is for girls and blue for boys is a 20th century concept. In the 19th century, it was often advised that mothers dress boys in pink, as it was a "strong" color, and girls in a serene blue. In non-western cultures, it is still not widely known or accepted. When I was a teacher at an International School in SE  Asia, I was always amused when families returned from summer holidays with new school clothes for the children. So often, Mummy would choose lovely pink outfits, from running shoes, socks, and upwards, for her little boy.  


Those were the days of talented children in silent films, and one I think was so cute was Baby Peggy Montgomery. I just love her mischievous dark eyes and bobbed hair, and her ruffly dress!






Sunday, February 2, 2014

#2 Innovation -- Motoring Coat In Progress

                              

I've bitten off more than I could chew for this fortnight! I spent a lot of time constructing the basic coat and still have to sew in the sleeves and front pocket, and put on the detachable collar. I am happy with the coat, black and severe as it may be. Dad calls it my mourning dress. The collar is a beautiful velvet scarf I've had in a box for ages. Very 1920s - devoré velvet in a lovely paisley-ish pattern of black, rose, green, gold, and purple, with a slinky black fringe on the ends. Devoré was a process invented in the 1920s, where chemicals were applied to eat away (devour) the velvet pile in patterns. The gathered scarf adds a bit of glamor and warmth to the very basic coat. It's Double Innovation -- clothes for driving in cars and a new process for fabric!


Velvet shawl collar
Front of coat

Back, showing  buttoned
vent pleat



The Challenge: Innovation - The automobile and clothes to wear while in it, the devoré velvet process.

Fabric: 100% linen fabric for the coat, velvet collar
Pattern: self-drafted from photographs of coat patterns.
Year: early 1920s
Notions: Thread, 15 abalone shell buttons, bias tape for attaching collar, snaps
How historically accurate is it? Pretty accurate.
Hours to complete: Too many
First worn: Not quite finished.
Total cost: About US$10 from thrift store and notions on hand.

So I'm putting this in the closet for a bit, because I want to dive into the "Pink" category -- Challenge #3 Pink.